The fire
Fire has been at the heart of cooking since the beginning.
Long before the pan, before the stove, before the tasting menu — there was a fire and something worth putting over it. We build ours at four every afternoon from beech, oak and a little cherrywood, and we cook the whole service on it. No gas. No shortcuts. The heat rises and falls all night and we cook with what it gives us.
The dining room is dark on purpose. The flame is the only thing that needs to be bright.
“Smoke is a seasoning. Used badly it shouts. Used well you never notice it — you just come back next Thursday.”